Umbria is Tuscany's quieter neighbour, and many couples who discover it find it more beautiful. While Tuscany has the famous landscape and the international reputation, Umbria has kept something that mass tourism has taken from its neighbour: a quality of genuine rural silence and an authentic medieval architecture still inhabited and lived in rather than preserved for tourism.
The landscape of Umbria is distinct from Tuscany in a specific way. Where Tuscany is warm ochre and terracotta, Umbria is green — intensely, richly green, particularly in spring and early summer when the hillside meadows and olive groves create a green so deep and varied (sage, dark olive, yellow-green grass, dark cypress) that it approaches the paintings of Perugino, the Umbrian master who was Raphael's teacher. This is a landscape that has been described as painterly for very good reason: it has the quality of a carefully composed and lit painting at almost any time of day.
The medieval towns of Umbria — Assisi, Perugia, Orvieto, Spoleto, Montefalco, Todi — each have a complete character, perched on their defensive hills above the surrounding agricultural plain. Assisi in particular has an extraordinary quality of light and stone — the pink-and-white Subasian limestone that the town is built from creates a luminosity at dawn that is unlike any other material I photograph.
























